Wine By Nine

By international standards, South Africa is a small producer: only 1.5% of global plantings; slightly over 105,000 hectares (260,000 acres). But recent years have seen significant growth, with over 140 million liters exported per year from 830 million liters produced.

A producer of both whites and reds, 80% of new plantings are Shiraz, Cabernet, and Merlot and a sprinkling of others. Over 20% of the white is predominately Chenin Blanc, and white varieties are still in the far majority.

Though new to the international scene, South Africa has been under cultivation for 350 years, since the arrival of Dutch settlers. With 60 appellations, the area has fewer than a dozen major regions.

The Cape area has seen vintages since the arrival of Europeans, with the Stellenbosch region serving as the modern hub of production. Though the region knows several common varieties, it also produces an indigenous hybrid called ‘pinotage’, which is well suited to local conditions.

Walker Bay is one of the newer, cooler areas on the Whale Coast south of Cape Town. Classic Chardonnay and Pinot Noir form the bulk of the production here. To the north is Swartland, where rainfall is limited so efforts are fed mostly by artificial irrigation.

In the suburbs is the small Constantia, where vineyards reside on the slopes of the eponymous mountain. The historic center of winemaking, it boasts a Semillon made from ideal climatic conditions.

East of Stellenbosch is Elgin, where the high altitude produces cooler temperatures than most other regions. Inland to the west, surrounded by the Drakenstein mountains, is the Franschoek Valley. Blessed with high rainfall and hot periods, the variety of soils combine with the climate to make perfect growing conditions.

To the north-west, Paarl houses many of the leading South African producers. Traditionally given almost exclusively to white, political and economic changes have encouraged the vintners to turn their efforts to red. The Mediterranean climate helps those efforts. Hotter than Stellenbosch, Paarl produces some of the best South African wines.

Durbanville vineyards, on the hills of north-east Cape Town, have been producing wine for nearly 300 years. Today, both red and white are well represented between a stellar Sauvignon Blanc and an excellent Shiraz.

But South African conditions don’t merely emulate the Mediterranean. The Klein Karroo is a semi-desert region where muscatels and Portuguese port is produced.

Robertson, 120km (72mi) form Cape Town, lies along a fertile and warm valley. Chardonnay and even sparkling wine are made here. Like other regions, red is becoming more popular, with the main effort being Shiraz.

Hot Worcester, near Robertson, and the surrounding area forms 20% of all South African vineyards, despite the long distance from Cape Town. Here, brandy is one of the chief products.

While politically the country’s fate is always an open question, their winemaking efforts show a commitment to quality second to none. With the substantial investments made over the last few years, several vineyard’s results are set to enter the world stage.

Australia’s wine efforts date back to the mid-19th century, but the industry languished until about 30 years ago. Since then, the country has grown to be a world producer with a variety of highly regarded whites and reds.

With climate regions similar to California, it’s not surprising that much of the product would mirror the popular varieties of that state. But the Australian’s — true to their iconoclastic heritage — add several distinctive varieties of their own.

Shiraz (or Syrah) is one of the most well-known recent products, but the lesser-known Durif would be a welcome guest at any table. Hailing from the Rutherglen, a small town in north-eastern Victoria, it joins the area’s unusual sparkling red to form a pair of unique offerings. Rutherglen also produces fortified wines, such as port, muscat, and Tokay that often make their way to other countries.

Victoria also boasts another world-class set of producers in the Pyrenees (not to be confused with the mountains along the French-Spanish border).

Under plant since the early 1960s, the region now holds over 30 vineyards with nearly 600 hectares (1458 acres) growing twenty-five varieties. Shiraz, Merlot, and Pinot Noir are among the reds, with whites represented by Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and others.

Once the home largely to apple orchards, the Mornington Peninsula has turned to winemaking in recent decades. With over 60 wineries, many open for public tastings, the area boasts a well-regarded Pinot Noir.

McLaren Vale, bound on the south by the Sellicks Hill Range and to the west by Gulf Saint Vincent. The area enjoys a Mediterranean climate with a dry summer south of the equator. Rarely suffering frost or drought, the long hot days and short cool nights are perfect for growing.

Some vines of the region are still producing more than a hundred years after first being planted. The soil and climate combine with modern methods to produce a wine with superior aging qualities. Widely acknowledged as one of the premier producers of Shiraz, harvest occurs from March to early April. With its noted smaller berries, vintners here produce a complex, intense wine.

But Shiraz isn’t the only excellent product of the region. Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache both are well reputed. The Grenache, similar to that grown in Spain, grows well in the distinctive soils.

Among the oldest regions, the Clare Valley is also one of the most scenic. Settled by the English and Irish in the 1840s, much of the architecture still reflects those early days.

The climate is continental, with hot summer days and cool nights. Some valleys enjoy altitudes as high as 500m (1640ft) with red soil over graveled rock.

Like much of Australia, Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz dominate, but it also produces a Riesling which has garnered international awards.

After struggling back from phylloxera infestations, in the years since the 1970s the country has grown to become the world’s largest exporter of wine to the UK. It has earned its reputation as one of the world’s finest producers.

The wines of Spain, like its people, are diverse, robust, and full of life. The roots of Spanish winemaking go back thousands of years and form a proud tradition of quality. Nowhere is this more evident than in Andalusia, where sherry is the beverage of choice.

A fortified wine (distilled alcohol is added before aging), sherry is actually several wines. Fino, Oloroso, Manzanilla, and — the drink made famous by Edgar Allan Poe — Amontillado, are among the varieties all called sherry.

The Fino and Manzanilla are younger and crisper, more acidic. The Olorosos and Amontillados are longer in the barrel, growing more mellow as they age.

Often drunk as dessert wines, especially by the British for whom sherry became something of a national drink, they go well with many other kinds of foods.

The British have more to thank Spain for than sherry, though. Not only did Henry VIII’s first wife come from the region, so did the well-regarded Carignan.

As you would expect, reds are prominent in this land of ample sunshine and red soil. The Aragonese don’t disappoint, producing many full-bodied wines, full of color and aroma. The Grenache, of course, is considered a regional treasure by vintners in this area.

Castilla, having it’s own literary heritage, produces wine equally deserving of fame. To many, the entire region is considered one enormous vineyard. La Mancha, evoking memories of Don Quixote, is one reason for the reputation. It’s reputed to be the largest wine region in the world, though there are many Frenchmen who would, of course, argue.

Just to show how iconoclastic they truly are, from this powerhouse of winemaking comes a white named Airen. Crisp and delightful, it ensures that no Spanish knight will need to slay doubters.

Reds are well represented, though, by the Tempranillo often blended with French varieties, such as Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon. Even Syrahs are beginning to be seen here.

North of Madrid are to be found the whites of Rueda. Delicate and light, they’re made from a local variety called Verdejo. Sauvignon Blanc, too, is making an appearance.

But traditions in Spain change slowly and red is still dominant. Robust and heavy, the Ribera has seen a renaissance in the the last few decades. The Tinto Fino, a kind of Tempranillo makes a complex red that ages well.

Mencia has its own tradition of red, based on the Cabernet Franc. Secluded near Castilla y Leon, the wines are intense. Lighter roses are a staple of the region, too, though. A specialty white, made from Godello, is produced here as well.

Catalonia, with coasts on the Mediterranean, has been making wine since the first Greeks arrived here. It continues those ancient traditions with vinos rancios that are only for the most hardy. But, for those who prefer something lighter, Catalonia is happy to provide a white from the Penedes.

It will also cheerfully serve a sparkling wine from Cava. The latter is actually a kind of Spanish champagne, but much more full-bodied than the French version, as befits the area.

But to get the most distinctive feel, the best bet is to try one of the reds of Tarragona. Full-bodied, from Cariñena and Garnacha grown in slate-enriched earth, it forms the pinnacle of wine from Catalonia.

Last, but far from least, Galicia continues to make wines as it has since Roman times — though in recent times the whites have come to the fore. Here Celtic traditions mix with Roman to produce wines that combine with seafood like no others in the world.

The moist climate and lower amount of sunshine produce wines high in acid and delightfully crisp. Most are made from varieties found only here.

Like so much about Spain, the country is filled deep with traditions but reaching into the 21st century to produce wines that can compete with any from around the world.